Archive for July, 2012
On days as hot as this one (95°, feels like 100°, humid, no wind) I have a really strange clearly masochistic instinct to crave barbecue. I know it’s because I associate it with the South, and seriously I have no idea how such a heavy food was invented in the kind of climate where you can’t even walk outside in the summer, but all I can say is it’s still a good thing we don’t have good barbecue in CT because otherwise I would eat it all. But while I’m reminiscing, I figured it’s about time I put up another restaurant review for your salivating pleasure. Also, while I have your attention, I’d like you to know that the new figcookingschool.com has finally arrived! Please go check it out and let us know what you think (extra credit for high praise).
Allen and Sons, in Chapel Hill, NC fits firmly in the category of “awesome road food.” While the menu is certainly not limited (they do have fried chicken and a few other southern classics), barbecue is clearly the center of attention. They only have one kind – the smoky, tender, chopped pork native to North Carolina, referred to simply as “barbecue.”
Because this pork is chopped, not pulled, it melts blissfully on your tongue, and while their vinegar-based East Carolina sauce is not as flavorful as the sauce at Halligan, it does perfectly accentuate the smokiness of the meat.
Alongside their ‘cue (see, I’m a native now) they serve a faintly lemony, delightfully tea-full sweet tea, perfectly crisp okra that actually tastes like okra, and the best hushpuppies we had – sweet, with a clear corn flavor. But while everything we had was great, their dessert can only be called a revelation. I rarely find a restaurant where I think dessert is better than the food (which is a shame because I love dessert more than anything) but this place, like many in the south, was a distinct exception.
The peach cobbler had a thin syrup on perfectly sweet, juicy, fresh peaches…
the coconut pie was perfectly southern, and not too sweet…
and their chocolate pie, made with real chocolate and topped with perfectly spiced pecans, was thoroughly humbling (and you know how we get about our chocolate pie).
Nobody there had the recipe, so I’d have to drive all the way back just to get another piece, but I swear it would be worth every mile.
Allen & Son Barbecue is located at 6203 Millhouse Road Chapel Hill, NC 27516. If you know what’s good for you, you’ll go as soon as you can.